Maximizing for Enjoyment Not Profits

Last week the New York Times featured an article on how we have used our retail strategy to keep us in demand.

Traditionally, business models are optimized for profits.  But that does not have to be the case.  But MB&F is different.  Max has chosen to optimize for creativity and quality of life.  When we make decisions, instead of focusing on how it impacts our financials today, we think how to make the brand strongest in the long run and ENJOY ourselves along the way.  Obviously the watches are incredible, but I think this single fact is what makes MB&F the most special and what Max deserves the most credit for.  It certainly makes it a pleasure to be involved in this adventure.

The goal is to have a company that can remain very small, continue constantly making one amazing product after another, and achieve an awareness and trust level with consumers that the watches more or less sell themselves on their own merits.  This is not to say that we don’t all want to make money, just that it is not the primary driver of our actions.  Not only does that maximize our enjoyment, but it provides the greatest level of value for all of our partners and customers.

As an aside, optimizing anything other than profits is a concept that simply does not register for some people.  Occasionally when explaining this, we just get a blank stare and some sort of cynical statement like, “Cut the b.s.  When are you really going to grow and start pumping out watches?”  I can’t help but think that they are missing the point.

Thanksgiving

Dropping in to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving!

I have family in town and I’m going to try to pry myself away from my computer as much as I can.  So I will probably not be posting again this week.  Maybe I’ll try to throw up some fun links on Thursday in case you get bored of your family ;)

Here’s an interesting piece on how your Thanksgiving turkey gets made (WARNING: do not read if you want to enjoy your turkey tomorrow)

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie: Results and Analysis

I am happy to report that both of my picks ended up being correct.  Congratulations to Van Cleef for Best Ladies’ Watch and of course, we took home the Design and Concept Watch prize for our HM4 Thunderbolt.  I know Max and the whole team are very excited, and they truly earned it.  All of the other winners were very well-chosen.  It’s great to see the judges actually choose the most deserving watches.

And that is why, if I were any of titans of the Swiss watch industry, I would be scared.  Look at the winner list:

  • Golden Hand: Greubel Forsey (independent)
  • Ladies Watch: Van Cleef and Arpels
  • Men’s Watch: Laurent Ferrier (independent)
  • Design and Concept Watch: MB&F (independent)
  • Jewelry Watch: Chopard
  • Complicated Watch: FP Journe (independent)
  • Sports Watch: Seiko (Japanese)
  • The Small Hand (cheaper watch): Tag Heuer
  • Special Jury Prize: AHCI (Academy of Independents)
  • Public Prize: Vacheron

Anything stick out there?  It has been clear to many people following the industry that the independents have really been the ones making interesting products for quite some time.  To see it play out so dramatically in such high profile awards *should* be the wakeup call that some of these companies need.

More likely, they will shrug it off and continue business as usual.  Can you imagine another industry where the main companies would get completely swept at the most major awards ceremony and no one would take notice?

Don’t get me wrong, I am incredibly excited that independents are finally beginning to get recognized.  At the same time, it is a bit frustrating that these big brands, with all of their history and resources aren’t bringing their A-games.  I would love to see the watches that could be created if everyone were focused on making incredible products.

Congrats to all the winners and the nominees.  Here’s my parting shot with the prize winner..

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Grand Prix d’Horlogerie: Design and Concept Watch

As I mentioned yesterday, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie will take place tonight in Geneva.  Today I’ll tackle what is almost always the most interesting category, Best Design and Concept Watch.  Again, go here for all of the nominees.

Ok, obviously I am biased.  First of all, MB&F has two watches nominated in the category: HM3 Frog, and HM4 Thunderbolt.  For that reason, I expect that most people will discount my opinion.  However, I have a countering bias.  I have been primarily interested in these Concept type watches for six years and have spent my own money on many of the other brands (I even own an URWERK 202 which is very similar to the 203 nominated).  For those who know me personally, I think it is clear that I work with MB&F because I love what they do rather than loving what they do simply because I work with them.

With that out of the way, I will say that there are two watches that are far ahead of the pack, and no, it is not the two MB&F’s.  I absolutely love the HM3 Frog.  In fact it would probably be my choice out of our entire collection if I wanted to daily wear a watch.  However, at the end of the day it is a variation on a platform we have already shown and therefore I do not believe it deserves the Concept Watch prize.  Same goes for the URWERK 203, Freak Diavolo, and B&R.

No, the clear winner to me should be the MB&F HM4.  In the history of haute horlogerie, no one has ever created a movement or a case like it.  It represents the absolute best in available manufacturing and finishing capabilities and is emblematic of the shift in watches from tools to sculptures.  I happen to know how difficult this project was to execute, both in physically producing all of the parts, and the risk-taking self confidence necessary to put three years and a company representing multiple peoples’ entire professional lives and savings into such a risky product.  It is a result of Max’s complete history in the industry, one that has helped this Concept Watch category matter in the first place.

So who would I choose if I weren’t allowed to pick an MB&F?  Well, I think second place is clear too: Devon Tread 1.  I have seen this watch in person, and it is COOL!  It fits the category perfectly as it is a watch that breaks paradigms.  It is the first watch made in the USA that has ever been nominated for the GPdH.  It uses a combination of electrical motors and mechanical belts and recharges through induction.  The Devon guys should be very proud of what they have created.

Good luck to everyone nominated.  I hope the judges make good decisions.  I’ll report the winners tomorrow.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie: Ladies’ Watch

Thursday, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie will take place in Geneva.  The Oscars of watchmaking, every year there are some very deserving winners and some surprises.  I thought I’d give my picks for the two most interesting categories as I see them: Ladies and Concept.  As a disclaimer, I have not seen all of the Official Selections in person, so I will do my best to pick based on the ones I have seen and pictures.

For all of the Official Selections, see here.

Today I’ll take on the Ladies’ Watches.  I have two clear favorites here.  The first is the Corum Golden Bridge.  I have always loved the Golden Bridge.  I believe it was originally conceived by Vincent Calabrese.  The problem I find with the Mens’ versions is that, once on the wrist, you see too much wrist (and wrist hair!) and not enough watch.  This Ladies’ version is the perfect proportions.  Very well done.

But, my absolute favorite is the Van Cleef & Arpels Le Pont des Amoureux.  Developed by Jean-Marc Weiderrecht of Agenhor, the same “Friend” responsible for the movement of our HM2 and HM3, this watch has a poetic quality that I find to be incredibly beautiful.  It features a retrograde hour and minute as symbolized by two lovers.  Each minute, the man moves a notch closer to the center of the bridge.  Each hour, the woman moves one notch closer to the center.  At 12:00, they meet in the middle, kiss, and each flies back to the beginning.

To me this is one of the most amazing Ladies’ watches of the last few years and the clear winner of the category.

Thank You

This Tech Tuesday, I thought I would offer a little update on the state of TickTocking.  I have to say, this project has exceeded my wildest expectations.  I’m sure you have noticed that I have not been able to keep with my goal of blogging every day.  Some days I just don’t have much to say and I don’t want to compromise on quality (I have a couple times and wish I hadn’t).  I will try to, at the very least, post three times per week.

Here are my traffic stats from yesterday, and they are pretty standard for days when I post:

For a watch blog with nearly no pictures and no product coverage, that is outstanding.  The process of forcing myself to think deeply about certain topics multiple times per week has been incredibly valuable in itself.  Having readers that clearly are getting something out of the content is icing on the cake.

So thank you all very much for reading and for your comments.

Bloggers vs. “Journalists”

Over the weekend, a very interesting discussion broke out on The Watch Lounge.  I encourage everyone to read the post and the comments there, they are from some of the biggest players in the watch media.  I wrote a comment, but wanted to expand a bit here.

There are a few issues at play.  In my comment, I address the Bloggers vs. Journalists question.  This reminds me a bit of our parents saying Rap music isn’t music, or their parents saying Rock music wasn’t music.  Of course bloggers are journalists.  If you are such a contrarian that this does not seem obvious to you, just look at all the “journalists” starting blogs and all the bloggers writing for mainstream outlets.  Or if you really need more proof, go over to Columbia University and find Ben Clymer of Hodinkee in his Graduate Journalism program.  He will not magically become a journalist when he is finished; he is a journalist now.  He will simply be a better journalist.  A journalist is not a doctor.  They are not defined by a degree or by years of experience.  They are defined by their commitment to the subject matter, their readers, and quality of their work.

Now that we can remove the distinction between bloggers and journalists, we can start making generalized statements.  For example: most journalists suck.  If this were only confined to the watch industry, we would be living in a much better society.  Unfortunately, it holds true all the way to the top of the profession.  Don’t get me wrong, there are some absolutely fantastic journalists.  We all have our favorites, whether it be watches, gadgets, sports, or politics.  Making a distinction between bloggers and journalists that is to imply poor quality to high quality is a dirty trick of false association.

On the point that brands should somehow subsidize and encourage the development of bloggers as writers, I think to even imply such a thing is doing bloggers a disservice.  It is no one’s responsibility but a journalist’s own to make sure he has the tools and abilities necessary to create good content.  There is, however, a very fair criticism that brands should provide better information to all media.  I have written many times before on the misinformation often presented by the brands.  One cannot expect a well-informed media if they are only being fed propaganda.

Lastly, on “journalistic integrity”, I have written about that some as well.  All journalists have a major risk of bias, especially in this environment and especially in this industry.  The watch industry are huge ad buyers across all verticals.  Watch media are almost entirely supported by watch brands.  Whether a blog or a magazine, the fact is that the brands are paying for the content and thus, conflicts are inevitable.

Thanks Tom, for bringing up a great discussion.  Thanks to everyone else for commenting.  I could go on seemingly forever, but I’ll leave it here to be picked up another day.

Retailer Week: Manfredi

When I came on board with Max, clearly we needed to open a few more retailers.  The challenge was that we had no connections at most of the stores.  Luckily, I have no shame whatsoever in cold calling or showing up somewhere unannounced.  I would never pressure anyone to become a dealer, either they get it or they don’t, but it was important for me, in the beginning, to at least be acquainted with all of the right players so that they could make their own decisions.

Manfredi is located in Greenwich, CT on the main street of stores.  Greenwich is like a small town, and Manfredi feels like a neighborhood jewelry shop.  It just so happens that the neighborhood is one of the wealthiest in the world, and the store has some of the most spectacular brands and inventory in the country.  The owner, Roberto, has as good a reputation as you will find in this business.  He does what he says when he says 100% of the time – never overextending himself so that he can always follow through on his commitments.  That is a philosophy both Max and I share, so this seemed like a perfect fit.

Before the Geneva show one year, I cold called the store.  I spoke to Roberto who was familiar with MB&F and told me he would let me know if he had time to stop by our suite.  Sure enough, a few days later he called back and made an appointment.  Then he showed up on time for his appointment.  Eventually, after meeting us a few times and feeling comfortable with the brand, he placed an order.  This may all sound simple, but I cannot tell you how often this is not the case.  So many people never call back, miss appointments, keep things hanging.  Or on the other end, we have dealers that we know have no business carrying MB&F who rush in and want to place an order without thinking it through.  Luckily we are not looking to make a quick buck, so we turn them down, otherwise that is how you get too much product out and pieces all over the secondary market.

In any case, here was a guy who was reliable, fully thought through his involvement, committed only after he was sure that we would have a mutually beneficial relationship.  How could we not love it?!  We shipped our initial order there earlier this year – our first representation on the East Coast.  Well worth a short trip from anywhere in the area.

So that’s it for Retailer Week.  I hope it was interesting to hear about how these retail partnerships are formed and what the selection process is like.  In the end, it is all about the people.  Some brands will open any store that will place an order and pay for it.  For us, we want to be in the right places, with the right people who we know will represent the brand properly and can sell a reasonable amount of Machines consistently.  If you start selling to stores that can sell their first few pieces easily but have to majorly struggle and discount to sell any more, it is not beneficial to anyone and kills the brand in the long run.  Again, thanks to Max, I am able to always stay patient, focus on the longterm health of MB&F, and not chase money.  I believe that is one of the most important reasons you will see MB&F as a major player long into the future.

Retailer Week: Lussori

Last year I received an invitation from Lussori to join them in their store during the Pebble Beach car shows.  Generally I turn down offers to appear at stores other than our Authorized Dealers, but this was too good an opportunity to miss.  Their store was on the main street in Carmel – an obvious destination for the biggest gathering of high end car collectors in the country.  That being said, I went in not knowing what to expect.

At the time, I had only two other dealers, Westime in Los Angeles and Berger in Mexico City.  I had no intention of opening another dealer in California, but I went into it with an open mind.  At the very least, it was a great opportunity to show some of our pieces to potential collectors.

I made my first sale within ten minutes of walking in the door – before the store opened.  How?  The owner, Lawrence Kosick saw the Rose Gold and Ceramic HM2-CR that I had with me and it was love at first sight.  From then on, the next couple days were a pleasure.  I got to meet great collectors and the staff at the store could not have been nicer and more accommodating.  Before I left, they asked to place an order and become a dealer.

Lawrence with his HM2-CR on his wrist along with Max and Me

Now I had a dilemma.  Do I open my second dealer in the country, both in California?  It makes no sense.  On the other hand, I like the people involved and I like what they are doing.

Lawrence was an early employee at one of the big Silicon Valley companies.  A watch lover, he decided to open a watch store after he left.  They also have developed CRM software for luxury companies and are at the forefront of online retailing.  While the store was initially in Carmel, the plans were always to move to Silicon Valley – they moved to Los Altos earlier this year.

One of the most fundamental characteristics of MB&F is its focus on people.  Luckily, I have the ability to follow that even in my choice of retailers.  And so, I decided to go with my gut and take the order.  Since then, we have enjoyed a nice relationship, even doing a great dinner event with Max over the summer.  While the choice to have two California dealers looked strange for a few months, now that we have someone on the east coast and with all of the interest we have in the tech world, I think the choice to have a store in Silicon Valley makes perfect sense.  For all of you tech guys, go over and check out some of the Machines!!